Cat Proofing Your Home

I grew up with cats. They were all strays who sniffed out my grandma's cooking, I assume, and decided we were good enough for them. Fortunately for my family, the cats who we adopted didn't arrive all at once. They came and went, replacing those who got lost. The biggest number of cats we had at once were five. As our cats were free to roam in and out of the house, some went missing after a night's adventure. I would cry buckets for weeks before another cat would arrive.

There was nothing much we could do as we felt bad trapping them in the house though caging them for the night would have been a better option in hindsight.

When my hubby and I were preparing to move out of our first temporary house together, a stray yellow brown short hair cat somehow managed to sneak into the house while we were away on a short trip. In the past few weeks before this incident, this fella had always come to our house to get his meals and would disappear. 

This time, we found him looking battered and worn from a cat fight that must have left him incapable of moving for the past few nights. He was stinky and dirty but who gave a care? I quickly poured him his cat food and refilled his pail of water. He later went off to his nightly duties and left me to a good night's sleep.

He came back the next day looking worse in the daylight. It was decided that we would bring him to a vet before we went for a weekend visit to my mum's out of town. Just as we were ready to leave, he was nowhere to be found! We felt pretty useless but we couldn't wait for him to come back so we left.

We came back the next day and I was greeted by a sick-cat pong inside the house as I opened the door. Uh oh! I was hoping it was just a smell from the outside but no!!! It was him behind some bags, not looking very healthy. He had spent the night there! We must have missed him on our way out the day before. As it was a Sunday, most vets close early so I made a few calls to cat lovers I knew and got a vet in Taman Tun. Oh! But that's only the beginning!

I had no cage! As we were moving, we had some extra boxes so we decided to seal him into one of the boxes (with breathing space of course!) Oh but he was strong and resistant and he pee-ed in the box in his state of anxiety. Sigh..we managed to capture him and hold the box lid down with the only thing that was heavy and big enough at that time- the dustbin!

After 20 minutes of travelling we reached the vet only to find it closed. The darkest thoughts entered our minds. What were we supposed to do with him now?! Hubby noticed a mobile number on the vet's door and promptly made a call. Luck was on our side as the vet said that he was on the way to the clinic to feed the pets there. Yippee! 

Sure enough he arrived in 10 minutes, looked at him and declared he needed stitches to close a hole under his chin. Poor thing had a puncture wound and maggots! He convinced me to also castrate the cat so that he can be kept indoors if we decided to keep him. Well duh! He was our responsibility now! Without much contemplating (I could only picture my dad, grandma and in-laws shaking their heads in disapproval), we decided that he was going to move WITH us! ( Below: Smokey, when he arrived, getting comfortable in our new home).

So-Cat Proofing Your Home- yes, that 's the topic of this post. Got a bit carried away there. As we were moving into a condo, Smokey (hubby won in name-picking) had to be kept in a cage because of his wounds. That made it easier for us to settle in. Smokey is a smart fella. He potty trained himself in the cat litter in his cage so when it was time to let him out, we didn't have any issues of him marking his territory.

Whenever we went out, we made sure all windows were kept closed. We know of cats flying out of windows when they catch sight of birds. Bless their souls. We're not so much into fragile decorative items so we didn't have to worry about him breaking anything.

Other Cat Proofing Tips are:

BATHROOM AND LAUNDRY

Try to get all family members into the habit of leaving the toilet lid down. Cats, especially small kittens or less agile older cats, can fall in and drown. Smokey's new companion, Lily (a two month old kitten then), whom we adopted last year, was very much curious about holes and toilets when she arrived.

Many bathroom essentials are toxic to cats. Make sure any medications and other toxic items are stored securely. Stow all breakable items and hazardous objects safely in cabinets, cupboards and drawers; if your cat figures out how to open doors (some do), use baby proofing latches to keep him out.

In the laundry room, always check your dryer before starting it (cats love taking naps on — or in — the dryer) and store detergents, bleach and other chemicals in a kitty-proof container.

TRASH CANS AND CONTAINERS

Don't underestimate your cat! Curiosity can get the best of any kitty and those paws are capable of turning over a trash can or even knocking a lid open.

Keep garbage, a source of such dangerous items as bones and sharp tins, in a trash can with a sturdy lid and latch. Plastic bags are as dangerous for cats as they are for small children so make sure you securely stow your plastic bags or keep them in a sealed recycle bin. 

One day, I actually found another cat of mine,Toby, manoeuvring his way home with a tin can covering his head . We were lucky its edges were not sharp.

FURNITURE AND RECLINING CHAIRS

Cats will investigate anything they can fit into, and they can fit into tight spaces. The warmth and darkness of furniture makes it an attractive nest. Also check furniture with mechanisms — recliners and sofa beds — before using or closing them. Kittens love playing with chairs legs so watch out before making sudden moves.

ELECTRICAL CABLES

Chewing an electrical cord can be fatal, and pulling on it may bring down an appliance that could injure your cat. Lamps can be strangulation hazards. Bundle all cords or tie them off out of reach.

NEEDLES AND THREAD

Strings, yarn, dental floss, elastics and especially needles and thread are highly enticing, but if swallowed they can do serious, often fatal, damage. Store anything string-like and any items small enough to swallow in a drawer or somewhere that feline paws can't penetrate.

Cat Adoption Checklist

Ok so you're at home watching television and your partner is out and suddenly you feel a pang of loneliness. You find yourself wondering if you should adopt a cat.


Because adopting a new cat comes with a lot of change for both cat and cat parent, here's a checklist to help make the transition as smooth as possible.

Questions for All Adopters:

Do you have any other pets and how will they react to a new cat?
Is your current residence suited to the cat you’re considering?
How will your social life or work obligations affect your ability to care for a cat?
Do you have a plan for your new cat during vacations and/or work travel?
How do the people you live with feel about having a cat in the house?
Are you (or your spouse, partner or roommate) intolerant of hair, dirt and other realities of sharing your home with a cat, such as allergies?
Do you or any of your household/family members have health issues that may be affected by a cat?
What breed is the best fit with your current lifestyle?
Is there tension in the home? Pets quickly pick up on stress in the home, and it can exacerbate their health and behavior problems.
Is there an adult in the family who has agreed to be ultimately responsible for the cat’s care?

Other Considerations:

If you are thinking of adopting a young cat, do you have the time and patience to work with the pet through its adolescence, taking playing, training and energy-level into account?
Have you considered your lifestyle carefully and determined whether a younger or older cat would be a better match for you?
Can you train and handle a cat with behavior issues or are you looking for an easy-going friend?
Do you need a cat who will be reliable with children or one you can take with you when you travel?
Do you want a cat who follows you all around the house or would you prefer a less clingy, more independent character?

Cat Costs:

More likely than not, the adopting agency will charge a fee to help defray the cost of taking in unwanted or lost animals. The adoption fee you pay will be a tiny fraction of the money you will spend over the life of your pet.

You may need to pay for your adopted cat to be spayed or neutered before bringing him or her home.

Some expenses are mandatory for all pets, include:

Food
Routine veterinary care
Licensing according to local regulations
Collars and identification tags
Kitty litter and box
Basic grooming equipment and supplies.

Other expenditures may not be required but are highly recommended:

Permanent identification, such as a microchip or tattoo
Additional grooming supplies or professional grooming (depending on your new cat’s needs)
A spare collar
A bed and toys
A crate or carrier

Unexpected costs: Accidents and illness can result in costly emergency veterinary care. Smokey suddenly fell seriously ill last year and had to be hooked up to an IV line. It cost us about RM1,500 for his treatment and pet hospital stay of a week.

Recovery tools for finding a missing pet can include posters and rewards.

A cat with special physical or behavioral challenges may require specialized professional support to overcome any obstacles these issues present.

Time Considerations:

Cats need to be fed once to twice a day, more often in the case of kittens, and need a constant supply of fresh water.

A responsible pet parent should spend at least one hour per day giving direct attention to his or her cat. This may include training, exercising, grooming, and playing or may just be lap time on the couch.

A cat with an abundance of energy needs more time to exercise and interactive toys to keep them entertained.

Cats with long coats need 20 minutes a day of grooming to prevent matting.

Cats with certain medical conditions may need additional attention, including specifically timed injections in the case of diabetic animals.

Remember that adopted cats may need additional bonding and reassurance time in the early weeks.

Shopping Checklist:

It may be a good idea to wait until you select your new cat before you begin shopping for supplies. For example, some items, such as food and water bowls or collars and harnesses, depend upon the size of the cat you will be adopting.

Also, be sure to find out which food your pet was eating in the shelter or foster home so that you can provide the same in the beginning, again to ease the transition. After the pet has settled in, talk with your veterinarian about switching to the food of your choice.

Once you’ve selected your pet, here’s a checklist of supplies you may need:

Necessary Items for Cats:

Food and water bowls
Food (canned and/or dry)
Litter box and scooper
Kitty litter
Collar
ID tag with your phone number
Hard plastic carrier
Nail clippers
Feline toothbrush and toothpaste
Brush or comb (depends on your cat’s coat length and type)
Super-absorbent paper towels
Sponge and scrub brush
Non-toxic cleanser
Enzymatic odor neutralizer
Variety of toys (toys including catnip are a favorite)
First-aid supplies

To see if you're really ready for cats in your life, why not volunteer at the local shelters? You might end up meeting your soul mate(s) for adoption there too!

http://www.spca.org.my/v51/supportus_volunteer.php
http://www.furryfriendsfarm.org.my/how-you-can-help/

Tips for Bringing a New Cat Home

Bringing a cuddly, appealing bundle of purr home is exciting, whether the kitten is your first or an addition to your current pet family. Your kitten will be entirely reliant on you to ease his transition from mom cat's side or animal shelter to this strange new place. Keeping him safe and happy takes planning and patience for everyone in the household. The efforts will pay off, as your new little friend grows into a confident, affectionate kitty who knows there's no place like home. Here are 10 tips for making your new friend's arrival easier.

GIVE IT TIME

Kittens are sometimes adopted at six weeks of age, but 10 to 12 weeks is better. Those extra weeks spent with his mother and siblings help a kitten learn acceptable behavior, from getting along with siblings to getting used to human contact. A six- or seven-week-old kitten may be stressed and confused at being separated from his or her family too soon; your kitten may be fearful of people, and could try to hide or run away from interaction. If a kitten has been gently handled and has gotten used to humans, he will be friendlier and better adjusted. In choosing a kitten, look for one that is inquisitive, doesn't shy away from your touch, and is ready to play. 

When we adopted Smokey from the streets, he was already friendly- a sign that he could have been pre-owned before being abandoned. Lily was also cared for before we adopted her. She was naturally curious and cheeky.

PROVIDE ALL COMFORTS

Kittens are growth machines for their first year and need different nutrition than adult cats. Extra protein for muscle and tissue development, fat for fatty acids and plenty of calories are key to kittens' health. Specially formulated kitten foods fitting their nutritional requirements should be given until the kitten is a year old.

Away from his littermates or mother, the kitten needs to feel secure as well as warm. Whether you provide a cardboard box lined with a blanket or a fancier bed from a pet supply store, keep your kitten's bed in a quiet place, away from household traffic.

Litter training is easy -- cats instinctively bury their waste -- but takes patience. Put the litter box in a corner or other secluded spot. After your kitten has awakened from a nap, or shortly after she's finished eating, place her in the box. If she doesn't dig or scratch, gently take one of her front paws and simulate digging with it. Praise her if she uses the box, but never punish her if he doesn't. Just place her in it at hourly intervals until she gets the idea.

To discourage clawing furniture, provide a carpet-covered scratching post. Smokey and Lily are disciplined in a way that they only scratch the edges of our hall carpet.

HELP HIM MEET THE FAMILY

Although everyone will want to hold the kitten, limit handling for the first few days while your new pet adjusts. Set up his bed, litter box and food in a quiet room where he can be secured until he gets to know his new home. Introduce one family member at a time, allowing the kitten to come to you and learn your touch.

Children under five should not interact with kittens; many shelters and rescue groups will not allow families with very young children to adopt kittens because children can be rough, sometimes tragically, with kittens. Older children can be shown how to hold a cat -- with one hand just behind the front legs, the other supporting his hindquarters. They should be taught never to grab a kitten's tail or ears, or pick it up by its scruff. Show children how to gently pet a cat's head and back. Remind them to always wash their hands after being around kitty. Always supervise children's interaction with kittens, especially if they have friends visiting.

CAT PROOF YOUR HOME

Kittens can get tangled or choked by anything swinging or hanging. Therefore, keep your new pet safe by securely anchoring drape or blind cords out of reach.

To prevent chewing on electric and phone cords, bundle them with a cord manager and fasten away from kittens' reach.

Rubber bands, jewelry, Christmas decorations, balloons and other small items are dangerous to kittens that may swallow them. Remove poisonous plants, and roach or ant traps and make sure the toilet lid is down. Keep kitchen and bathroom cabinets closed so your kitten doesn't encounter bleach, detergent, dental floss and other household items when exploring.

In the laundry area, keep washer and dryer doors closed: A kitten may climb into a warm dryer for a nap. Remember, if something would be harmful for a toddler, it's the same for your kitten.

INTRODUCTION TO ROOMS

After you've kitten-proofed, introduce your kitten to your home one room at a time. Place his open carrier in whichever room you are introducing him to so he has a retreat if he wants it, and let him walk around while you sit quietly. Talk to him softly as he explores. He may hide under a bed or scoot behind a refrigerator, so you need to be vigilant. If you don't want him in the habit of climbing on your bed, gently remove him and place him on the floor. Bring him back to his own space, and repeat this introduction process in each room of your home until he has explored every place.

HELP HIM ADAPT TO OTHER PETS (AND VICE VERSA)

Before bringing in a new kitten, be sure your resident pets have recently been checked by your vet, and are disease-free. When the kitten is in his or her secured room, your other cat will sniff around the doorway. Give your resident cat extra attention to ease his or her anxiety. Once the kitten feels comfortable, allow the two to meet briefly. Stay in the room while they sniff and explore each other. There may be some hissing and growling. If one cat shows real hostility, separate them and try again a few days later. Smokey and Lily took about two weeks before they became firm friends. 

Never leave a dog alone with a new kitten. Dogs can become aggressive, or a kitten may claw at a dog's face. Make sure your dog is properly leashed as you introduce him or her to your kitten following the same procedure you would to introduce a cat to your kitten. This lets the animals learn each other's scent. The kitten should not be allowed to run away because the dog may think chasing it is a game. Reward both pets for calm behavior. Always supervise their interactions until the kitten is fully grown.

Below: Smokey and Lily

KEEP HER PLAYTIME SAFE

A kitten's high energy level makes her eager to play at any time. To keep her safe, choose toys carefully, just as you would for a child. Avoid those with buttons, bells or other small parts that can come off and be swallowed. Watch for sharp edges, and beware of string, yarn or ribbon, as these are dangerous if ingested.

If a toy has any of these, always supervise the kitten when she plays with it. Small stuffed animals to attack and a ball too large to fit into her mouth will provide hours of kitten fun. You can hold a plastic fishing pole, anchored by a secure line to a fuzzy mouse or other small toy, in front of the kitten who will delight in chasing this prey.

HAVE A VET CHECK HIM OUT


Your vet should see your kitten within a day or two of his arrival. She'll check for ear mites and fleas, and examine a fecal sample, because most kittens have some form of worms. Many vets routinely deworm all kittens with an oral medication. At six to seven weeks, your kitten should receive a "three-way" vaccine that protects against the respiratory diseases FVR (feline viral rhinotracheitis) and FCV (feline calicivirus), as well as distemper (feline panleukopenia), with a booster shot given 12 to 14 weeks later. If your kitten is at least nine to 10 weeks old, he'll be tested for FeLV (feline leukemia) and FIV (feline immunodeficiency virus). He can get a rabies shot, usually required by law, at 12 weeks of age.

Kittens can be spayed or neutered as early as eight weeks of age, but your vet can determine the best time for this surgery. Spaying protects your female kitten from the risk of mammary, uterine and ovarian cancers, and spares her the stresses of pregnancy. Neutering a male reduces his risk of prostate cancer, and he won't "spray" to mark his territory. Because the urine of intact males literally stinks, neutering your kitten will make the litter box cleanup less of a chore. Spaying or neutering also helps reduce the problem of cat overpopulation.

MAKE HOME ALONE TIME FUN

A kitten left home alone should be secured in one room with his bed, litter box, scratching post, food and water. If you'll be gone until evening, add a nightlight. Give him enough safe toys to keep him busy, such as a trackball toy. Place a radio just outside his door, turned to a classical music or country western station. Many pet sitters have found cats seem to prefer these two genres. Other cats like listening to talk shows, perhaps soothed by the human voice. If your kitten will always be alone during the day, spend extra time petting and playing with him when you return.

BANISH THE SINGLE KITTEN BLUES


When you first bring your kitten home, he may miss his siblings and mother. He'll meow in confusion or wake up during the night. Ease his stress by picking him up, stroking him while speaking in a soothing tone. Wrapping a ticking clock in a towel and placing it near his bed to remind him of his mother's heartbeat.

Kittens have so much energy, they need to stay active to be happy. If you bring home two kittens together rather than one, they'll focus their play-fighting, scratching and wrestling on each other, and are less likely to feel lonely. They are also a lot more fun to watch.

Cat Boarding-Where Do I Start?

Need to go out of town? A boarding kennel can give your pet quality care while you’re away, giving you peace of mind. However, before you load Fido and Fluffy into the car and drive them to the nearest kennel, it’s important to do your homework and find the right kennel for your pets, then you’ll need to prepare your pets for boarding.

What Are the Pros of Using a Boarding Kennel?

Your pets depend on you to take good care of them, even when you’re out of town. Friends and neighbours may not have the experience or time to properly look after your pets, particularly for longer trips. So, next time you have to leave your pets behind for a while, leave pet care to the professionals by finding a reputable pet sitter or boarding kennel.

A facility specializing in care and overnight boarding allows your pet to:

• Avoid the stress of a long car or airplane ride to your destination.
• Stay where he’s welcome (unlike many hotels).
• Receive more attention and supervision than he would if home alone most of the day.
• Be monitored by staff trained to spot health problems.
• Be secure in a kennel designed to foil canine and feline escape artists.

What Should I Look For?

On your visit, ask to see all the places your pet may be taken. Pay particular attention to the following:

• Does the facility look and smell clean?
• Is there sufficient ventilation and light?
• Is a comfortable temperature maintained?
• Does the staff seem knowledgeable and caring?
• Are pets required to be current on their vaccinations, including the vaccine for canine kennel cough (Bordetella)? (Such a requirement helps protect your animal and others.)
• Are cats housed away from dogs?
• Is there enough space for cats to move around comfortably?
• Is there enough space between the litterbox and food bowls?
• How often are pets fed?
• Can you bring a pet’s special food?
• What veterinary services are available?
• Are other services available, such as grooming, training or bathing?
• How are rates calculated?

How Do I Prepare My Pet?

• Be sure your pet knows basic commands and is well socialized around other people and pets; if your pet has an aggression problem or is otherwise unruly, she may not be a good candidate for boarding. Before taking your animal to the kennel, make sure she is current on vaccinations.
• It’s also a good idea to accustom your pet to longer kennel stays by first boarding her during a short trip, such as a weekend excursion. This allows you to work out any problems before boarding your pet for an extended period.
• Before you head for the kennel, double-check that you have your pet’s medications and special food, if any, your veterinarian’s phone number, out-of-town contact information for you and a local backup.
• When you arrive with your pet at the boarding facility, remind the staff about any medical or behavior problems your pet has, such as a history of epilepsy or fear of thunder. After the check-in process, hand your pet to a staff member, say good-bye and leave. Avoid long, emotional partings, which may upset your pet. Finally, have a good trip, knowing that your pet is in good hands and will be happy to see you when you return.